Pietro Ratti, owner, Ratti
‘What is the reason to make a single-vineyard wine? To show the character of the place. But not all grapes transmit their terroir so vividly. Barbera can be different in different places, but not in vineyards that are side by side. Whereas Nebbiolo is very sensitive. It really shows the character of the vineyard, just as Pinot Noir does in Burgundy – though I would argue Nebbiolo even more so, because it also has a tannic component. Our Rocche dell’annunziata vineyard produces super silky, soft tannins. Whereas the soil at Serradenari, at 500 metres altitude, gives more rustic tannins.
‘For my father, in the 1960s, a single-vineyard wine was also a way to gain some identity amid the big producers who dominated the market. It’s the same in Champagne today – the small growers are the ones making single-vineyard Champagnes. The grandes marques don’t bother. And look at how Grower Champagne has become so fashionable. The same thing happened in Barolo. The big producers were not interested. They said, “What’s going on? Are you crazy?”
‘These days, our Barolo DOCG Marcanesco comes from a blend of three or four vineyards, not just one. But they are all within a kilometre of each other, and they all give something different – we put a little bit Serradenari in to lend more vibrant, minty freshness and grip, and then the other vineyards give the classic La Morra rose and violet, floral notes. As a result, Marcanesco is a super balanced Barolo – it doesn’t go to extremes. It’s the most important wine we produce, because it represents our history, our style, our tradition, our soul.’
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