On the joy of chilled red

On the joy of chilled red

Ok, we are almost inevitably tempting fate here. It is only April after all. But the sun has emerged convincingly enough – we have seen it, it definitely exists – that we’re declaring a state of ‘summer is on its way’ and writing about chilled reds.

Not so long ago the notion of chilled red in the UK felt almost vaguely heretical; a taboo discussion. White and rosé in the fridge or chiller, red out of it was about as far as mainstream wine temperature conversation went, outside of specialist retailers and restaurants.

But as the industry has evolved, as consumers have become more knowledgeable, as access to wine regions and producers has become a little easier, so the general understanding of ways to serve and enjoy wine has become more broadly sophisticated.

And just as we know that serving temperature is not a one-size-fits-all game for white wines (straight from the fridge is emphatically not our favourite way to enjoy the fuller-bodied styles of Burgundy, for instance), so there are certain reds that actively reach the apex of their joy when served with a bit of chill.

It’s how the locals drink it after all

It’s a little odd that chilled red seems to still be waiting for ‘its moment’ in the UK, given its popularity in the very places that make it.

‘If you visit Barcelona or Rioja any time between March and late October and just order a glass of red, it’s far more likely to be chilled than not,’ says Alex Corcoran, our Portfolio Manager for Spain. ‘It makes them more refreshing and brings out some of the brighter red fruit notes.’

Our Portfolio Manager for France, Flo Fagan, agrees. ‘Of course not every red wine is right for chilling,’ she explains. ‘You wouldn’t want to serve bigger, tannic styles that way. But it actively brings out the best of the freshness and lightness and fruitiness of styles like Beaujolais and lighter Pinot Noirs and Côtes du Rhônes.

‘In fact I’d argue it’s not just ‘an alternative’ way to serve them – a bit of cool is actively the way to appreciate many of these wines at their best.’

Which reds to introduce to the fridge and chiller?

Obviously the first point here is to add that you should serve your wines – whatever they are – the way that you enjoy them most.

That being said, the main rough note on red wines to chill or not chill is that coldness heightens the perception of tannin, so any of the denser, more muscular styles of red will ‘tighten up’, become more astringent and lose much of their breadth and complexity if served too cold.

Conversely, the softer, fruitier, brighter – often more youthful – styles of red wine are perfect when given a little while to cool. And this doesn’t only apply to table wines – whilst many White and Tawny Ports, Sherries and Madeiras are famously best-served chilled, Ruby Port can also benefit immensely from a gentle chilling.

‘Graham’s Blend No.12 Ruby and Six Grapes are beautiful wines to lightly chill,’ says Brand Manager Gabby Messent. ‘They’re vibrant, fruit-driven and that touch of coldness balances their natural sweetness perfectly. It’s how you would enjoy them in Porto, and how you should consider serving them through a British Spring and Summer.’

Another taste of spring and summer

None of this, of course, is to downplay the sheer refreshment of a glass of white or rosé at this time of year. And, as we have seen, not all reds are for chilling.

But the right style of red, served fresh from the fridge or chiller, cool beads of condensation gathering on the glass, can be a sheer, transportive, fruit-filled delight – a delicious surprise for the as-yet-unconverted; another by-the-glass string of flavour to the wine-lover’s bow.

We’ll certainly be enjoying them for the rest of spring and all the way through summer ourselves – and if the weather does take a turn for the British, a glass of the right chilled red could be just the thing to help us pretend that the sun’s still out and shining.